The Perryville Inn

This elegant country inn provides delicious surprises, courtesy of Chef Paul Ingenito.

By: Kate and Tom O’Neill

   The Perryville Inn in rural Hunterdon County has welcomed travelers since 1813. The Federal-style brick building stands amid trees that shelter it from the nearby interstate exit.
   Stylish, country elegance characterizes the atmosphere, cuisine and service. The entry to the restaurant is through a lounge with a welcoming fire, leather easy chairs and low tables. Beyond it, the Chinese red walls and ceiling of the Grand Tier dining room beckon. A large floral display in a copper vase draws eyes to the center of the dining room, and picture windows open onto the gardens and an illuminated gazebo.
   Chef Paul Ingenito and his wife Lorraine, who welcomed and seated diners on the night of our visit, acquired the Inn in 1997. He is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and served as executive chef at New York’s Russian Tea Room. When he stopped by our table after the meal, he described his cuisine as "classic country" with a commitment to local ingredients and flavors.
   Our server, Melissa, guided us through 16 specials and left us with a gold-framed specials menu as a reference. She also appraised the items on the regular menu and, when asked, displayed a command of the wine list. She leavened this impressive performance with a light touch. Chef Ingenito later told us that he formally tests the staff three times a year on their skills and knowledge.
   Including the specials, we faced a choice among 17 appetizers and 15 entrées. The appetizers include rabbit pot pie ($10) and carpaccio and tempura of lobster and crabmeat ($16). The entrées cover a wide range, from red snapper filet topped with crabmeat ($26.50) to grilled buffalo ribeye steak ($36). On weekends a seasonal tasting menu is available for $75, or $95 with accompanying wines. Compared to similar tasting menus at other fine restaurants, this struck Tom as a bargain, and that was his selection.
   The tasting menu provided a tour of the chef’s ambitions and skills, and the wines were thoughtfully selected to complement each of the five courses. From the first course of cracked Florida stone crab claw atop a grilled pineapple slice to the final entrée of petite mignon of beef with foie gras and black truffle sauce, the tasting menu blended unusual tastes and textures. The second course of seared Alaskan hiramasa — the highest grade of yellowtail tuna — with a sushi roll of shiitake mushrooms showed off the chef’s abilities with Asian cuisine. The fourth course, roast squab from the Griggstown Quail Farm, drew its ingredients and inspiration from closer to home. At the end of the meal, as he savored the last slice of the well-chosen cheeses accompanied by port, Tom concluded that the tasting menu was a greater value than the price alone had revealed.
   Kate and our son Tim had more choices to make. Tim began with the rosette of smoked salmon on a fresh corn pancake ($10.75). The pancake was piled high with avocado salad and plenty of smoked salmon, surrounded by dabs of American caviar. Separately the sweet corn pancake and the salty salmon were delicious, but together they did not create the expected synergy. Kate’s Washington State oysters and seared tuna "cocktails" ($11.25), featured oysters as good as any she has enjoyed in this country. The, big, briny Williby Bay oysters were exceedingly plump. The seared tuna had a great texture, but its taste was overshadowed by the excellence of the oysters.
   Melissa recommended that Tim and Kate include a salad course in their meal so they could match the duration of the tasting menu. Tim’s Mesclun Salad ($6.50) consisted of mixed greens (and reds!) along with endives, rich chunks of gorgonzola and chopped tomatoes with a tangy vinaigrette. Kate’s special Fall Salad ($8.75) featured mixed oak leaf lettuce, butternut squash, pears, pomegranates and pumpkin seeds. If she had her way, it would be served year-round, but its season has almost passed.
   A special, baked Australian lobster tail paired with truffled lump crabmeat risotto ($34), was Tim’s choice for an entrée. The lobster tail had a fine texture, and was elegantly presented on its shell. The creamy, sherried lobster sauce complemented the risotto, which included peas and asparagus. Kate’s special roasted Mediterranean Bronzini filet ($22.50) was a well-cooked, honest fish. Its combination with angel hair pasta, Manila clams and Swiss chard in a rich and flavorful lobster consommé was a successful blend of tastes and texture.
   For dessert, Tim picked the "Ring Ding" ($8.50), an homage to the famous Hostess treat. Layers of devil’s food cake alternated with chocolate and vanilla mousse were covered in chocolate, whipped cream and raspberries. Rightfully proud of this confection, the Chef had initialed it in gold. Kate’s special pumpkin bread pudding ($7.50) was a fresh, moist, seasonal treat, containing plump raisins and topped with rich crème anglaise.
   Paul Ingenito describes his cuisine as "country classic," but the menu is far more inventive than that. He pairs ingredients that sometimes complement and sometimes contrast. Not all the combinations worked equally well for us, but the menu reflects imagination, and he prepares and presents the dishes with panache. Following his lead, with the guidance of the Inn’s well-informed servers, proved to be rewarding.
   As travelers have been doing for almost 200 years, head west to Perryville. You will find this old inn will provide some new surprises.
For directions to The Perryville Inn, click here.