The first thing I did when I bought a food processor in the early 1980s…was to chop meat for chili con carne. But now, with many people swearing off meat (Atkins notwithstanding), vegetarian versions abound.
By: Faith Bahadurian
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Illustration by Judy Martin
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The first thing I did when I bought a food processor in the early 1980s (a Moulinex/Regal La Machine III, and still going strong) was to chop meat for chili con carne. But now, with many people swearing off meat (Atkins notwithstanding), vegetarian versions abound.
It took a long time for me to come ’round, but the black bean chili in "The Greens Cook Book" (Deborah Madison with Edward Espe Brown, Bantam, 1987) made me a convert. Its smoky richness comes from roasting spices and using only pure (preferably New Mexican) chili powder instead of that harsh supermarket blend that contains garlic, cumin, and other additives. It is time-consuming, however, as you have to start with dry beans that have been soaked overnight, so the beans and seasonings cook together for over an hour.
Another approach is taken by chef David Maskello of J.B. Winberie’s restaurant in Palmer Square. Tonight, as part of a "Meet the Chef" series being presented by the University Medical Center at Princeton, he will demonstrate his popular vegetarian chili recipe, with healthful commentary by licensed nutritionist Joanne Gordon. (Registration required, see information below.)
Each chef in the series will work with a nutritionist for his or her presentation, and when I spoke to Ms. Gordon, who had not yet seen the recipe, she said that in vegetarian chili, it would be good to use more than one type of bean, so you still get a pretty complete protein profile, to replace meat’s high-quality protein. The beans are high fiber, which is lacking in many diets. Serving the chili with rice also helps the protein profile, and if the rice is brown, better yet you’ll get more fiber. The vegetables are good for you too, of course.
Turns out Chef Maskello’s recipe would satisfy her on every count. His chili has several kinds of vegetables and three kinds of beans. It is served over rice. He didn’t provide quantities, as he makes a huge amount, but it’s not rocket science. Use one can of each kind of beans and gauge your vegetables from there. The roasted garlic is a nice touch because you want that smoky flavor. He uses a vegetable base in his recipe; you will use vegetable stock. Start with just enough to cover the ingredients, add more if needed. (If I my chili seems too "loose," I add cornmeal to thicken.)
Those cowboys never had it so good around the chuck wagon.
VEGETARIAN CHILI
Courtesy of David Maskello
J.B. Winberie’s Restaurant & Bar
Olive oil
Red onion
Carrots
Roasted garlic
Zucchini
Tomato paste
Seasonings: Some things are sacred (or he may share at the event tonight). While Chef Maskello didn’t specify, I like a touch of oregano and plenty (at least 2 tablespoonfuls) of pure New Mexican chili powder, in addition to salt and pepper.
Frozen corn
Diced tomatoes
Vegetable stock
Tabasco (or other) hot sauce, to taste
Kidney beans
Great northern beans
Garbanzo beans
Dice the vegetables. Cook carrots and onions in olive oil until tender. Add garlic and zucchini and cook for five more minutes. Add tomato paste; cook for 10 minutes. Add seasonings; cook for 5 minutes. Add corn, water, tomatoes, vegetable stock, Tabasco and beans, and cook for 15 minutes.
For each serving, place a spoonful of cooked rice (preferably brown) in a bowl; ladle chili over rice, top with fresh cilantro, grated pepper jack cheese and sour cream dollop.
BLACK BEAN CHILI
adapted from "The Greens Cook Book"
Makes 8 cups
2 cups black turtle beans, soaked overnight
1 bay leaf
4 teaspoons cumin seeds
4 teaspoons dried oregano leaves
4 teaspoons paprika
¼ teaspoon cayenne
2 to 3 tablespoons pure New Mexican chili powder
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 medium yellow onions, diced
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1½ pounds ripe or canned tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped; juice reserved
1 to 2 teaspoons chopped canned chipotle chili
About 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
4 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Garnishes:
½ to ¾ cup muenster or Mexican cheese, grated
Chopped green chilies (canned or fresh roasted and peeled)
½ cup sour cream
6 sprigs cilantro
Sort through beans and remove any small stones. Rinse well, cover with water and let soak overnight. Next day, drain beans, cover with fresh water by about two inches, and bring to a boil with the bay leaf. Lower the heat and let beans simmer while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Heat a small, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add cumin seeds, and when they begin to color, add oregano leaves, shaking pan frequently to prevent scorching. As soon as the fragrance is strong, remove pan from heat and add paprika and cayenne. Give everything a quick stir and immediately pour out of the hot pan into a mortar or a spice mill. Grind to make a coarse powder.
Heat oil in a large skillet and sauté onions over medium heat until softened. Add garlic, salt and the ground herbs and chili powder, and cook another 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, their juice and about 1 teaspoon of chipotle chili. Simmer everything together for 15 minutes, then add this mixture to the beans, and, if necessary, enough water so beans are covered by at least 1 inch. Continue cooking beans slowly until they are soft, an hour or longer, or pressure-cook for 30 minutes at 15 pounds’ pressure. Keep an eye on water level, adding more, if needed, to keep the beans amply covered.
When the beans are cooked, taste them, and add more chipotle chili if desired. Serve the chili ladled over a large spoonful of grated cheese, and garnish it with sour cream, green chilies and a sprig of fresh cilantro.
For more information on the "Meet the Chef" series (pre-registration required), call (609) 497-4480 or visit www.mcp.org/Calendar.html and click on Current Programs. The monthly series takes place 7 to 8:30 p.m., at the Princeton Fitness & Wellness Center in the Princeton North Shopping Center on Route 206, Montgomery.