Winging It

What better way to support the home team than to eat Pennsylvania-made wings.

By: Amy Brummer

PHOTOS: AMY BRUMMER

A 10-piece plate of Washington’s wings at Revolutions Tavern on River Road south of New Hope.

   In 1981, the last time the Eagles played in the Super Bowl, the Buffalo chicken wing was just beginning to emerge as a contender in the field of American finger food. Invented in 1964 at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, N.Y., the fiery wing built in popularity over the decades to become virtually synonymous with bar food and football fare.
   This Sunday, when anyone can claim to be a football fan, living rooms across the greater Philadelphia region will be filled with die-hard and fair-weather fans rooting for an Eagles victory. For those who can stand to eat, a platter of Buffalo wings can complement the heat of a winning play or numb the sting of a disappointing fumble.

Revolutions chef John Smola with his specially garnished plates of wings.

   At Isaac Newton’s in Newtown, Pa., a generous plate of wings ($6.95) was slathered in a classic Buffalo wing sauce — tangy and bright orange, the heat was pronounced, but did not eradicate the flavor. The wings themselves were on the small side and fried hard, and as a result, the chicken was essentially a vehicle for the sauce, which had an addictive, vinegary kick. The accompanying blue cheese sauce was cool and smooth, while both celery and carrots added a cooling crunch.
   Revolutions Tavern in Solebury, Pa., by contrast, uses large, plump chicken pieces for its 10-piece plate of Washington’s wings ($7.50), which can be ordered mild to hot. Chef John Smola’s recipe is a variation on the standard Buffalo wing, his sauce is slightly sweet and thick, like a glaze, and he tempers this with a hot chili sauce to regulate the heat. Because of the wing’s size, the flavor of the chicken and the juiciness of the meat combine with the sauce to balance the heat, and give the wings complexity. On a recent visit, the chef prepared a specially garnished plate, and the addition of freshly chopped sweet peppers and scallions took this dish even higher.
   The wings at the Yardley Inn fall somewhere in between. With its view of the river and handsome decor, the inn is a sophisticated spot to catch the game, and the food matches the atmosphere well. The wings ($7) come in two flavors, ginger soy and spicy, the latter being our choice. A dainty plate arrived with 10 bite-sized morsels, replacing celery and carrots with a chop of fresh greens, while maintaining the classic sauce of the traditional recipe.
   Using the double-boned segment of the wing, the chef had chopped off the end joints and removed the thicker of the two bones. The remaining meat shrunk to a perfectly juicy morsel around the remaining bone, which served as a toothpick of sorts, providing an elegant utensil with which to eat the snack. Each bite was precious, and the accompanying blue cheese dressing was chunky and rich, a standout in its own right.
   For the definition of the classic Buffalo wing, Dominick’s in Washington Crossing, Pa., hits all the requirements. Medium-sized and cooked perfectly, the wings (six for $2.75; 24 for $10) are bathed in a sauce that nicely combines the hot/sweet of peppers with the tang of vinegar. Celery and blue cheese are served on the side. The restaurant also carries Buffalo chicken pizza, for those looking to get the flavor of the wing without orange fingers.
   At Colonial Farms, also in Washington Crossing, the wings ($6.99/pound) are large and a bit sweet, and come with celery and blue cheese. The store also puts together platters of chicken fingers, BBQ ribs and other messy foods for the football season.
   Styer’s Market in Langhorne, Pa., carries hot wings at its deli (six for $2.75), and the recipe varies from the standard in that the wings are breaded and fried, which soaks up the sauce. Celery and blue cheese are sold separately. Styer’s also carries Griffin’s Hot Buffalo Wing Sauce, a rich, fiery concoction produced in Levittown, Pa. Ranging in heat from sweet and spicy to turbo, the sauce can also be ordered online at www.griffinshotwingsauce.com.
   For those who wish to make wings at home, Zook’s BBQ Barn at the Amish Market in Newtown sells fresh wings for $1.99/pound, or rotisserie roasted wings for $4.99/pound. For a quick, no-fuss batch of homemade wings, I toss an order of rotisserie wings with a healthy dose of Griffin’s hot-wing sauce. The subtle smoky-sweet flavor from the rotisserie chicken, paired with the vibrant, spicy sauce, combines beautifully.
   It also combines regionally produced chicken with locally made sauce, and I can think of no better way to support the home team than eating Pennsylvania-made foods in honor of the Eagles.
Isaac Newton’s, 18 S. State St., Newtown, Pa.; (215) 860-5100; www.isaacnewtons.com
Revolutions Tavern, 1200 River Road, Solebury, Pa.; (215) 862-2972.
Yardley Inn, Delaware and East Afton avenues, Yardley, Pa.; (215) 493-3800; www.yardleyinn.com
Dominick’s, Route 532, Washington Crossing, Pa.; (215) 493-1376.
Colonial Farms, 1708 Taylorsville Road, Washington Crossing, Pa.; (215) 493-1584; www.colonialfarms.com
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