The Saloon

Italian standards, superior house-made desserts and excellent service are high points at this sophisticated Newtown, Pa., spot.

By: Richard Burns

   The Saloon is a fresh take on an old Newtown, Pa., favorite. The Township House restaurant, a nondescript place that was easy to miss, operated in this location for more than 30 years. In August of this year, Tony and Joe Bitella opened The Saloon in the same historic building that dates back to the mid-19th century. From the looks of the crowd on a recent weekday evening, it appears The Saloon is meeting a demand, since both the bar and the restaurant were comfortably busy.
   While The Saloon, like its predecessor, offers Italian cuisine, the décor has changed markedly. When I reviewed the Township House in December 2001, I described its appearance as "comfortable and attractive in a rustic way." Now the dining rooms are modern, cheerful and sophisticated. An etched glass door leads into a large bar area that has been maintained mostly as it was. The main dining rooms have been painted in bright colors and the tables, with white table cloths and candlelight, are comfortably spaced. Modern lighting gives a warm feeling to the rooms.
   The menu offers mostly Italian dishes, including a number of choices with either veal or chicken (prices are lower for the chicken dishes). Fish entrées are available with either tilapia or salmon. Three char-grilled items are available: a 12-oz. sirloin ($32), an 8-oz. filet ($29) and a 14-oz. pork chop ($18) are all served with a topping of giambotto, roasted potatoes and hot and sweet peppers or sautéed mushrooms in a Marsala wine sauce. The toppings are $4 each. There are about 10 standard pasta dishes. A daily specials menu also is offered, featuring not only food but wine by the glass, martinis and beer.
   We were tempted by the mussels fra diavolo ($9) and the bruschetta ($5) for appetizers, but selected the fried calamari ($10) and a special, garlic shrimp ($12). Our guest chose the soup of the day ($3.50), butternut squash. The calamari, served with a spicy marinara sauce and an anchovy mayonnaise, was crisp and tender, and the sauces were outstanding. The garlic shrimp consisted of four good-sized grilled shrimp served with a delicious topping of white beans, Italian sausage and red pepper and young fresh broccolini (a hybrid of the cabbage family, a cross between broccoli and Chinese kale). It was an unusual dish that was a big hit. The squash soup was creamy and flavorful. Salads ($4-$6) were available, but we passed on them in anticipation of our entrées.
   Our guest had the salmon Mediterranean ($19), which was grilled and served with artichoke hearts, kalamata olives, roma tomatoes and fresh basil in a garlic olive oil sauce. The fish was nicely prepared and the sauce was a great complement. My wife, Rose, chose the crab scampi with salmon ($29), a generous serving of grilled salmon filet topped with a helping of sautéed lump crabmeat in a garlic butter and parsley sauce. She thought it was a delightful dish. I chose the veal with a gorgonzola cream sauce ($23). The meat was tender and flavorful and the gorgonzola sauce a nice complement. Our only complaint about all three of the dishes was that they were a bit too salty.
   All desserts are made in-house, and if our sampling was any indication, this has to be one of the restaurant’s claims to fame. Rose’s citrus crème brulée was nicely flavored with orange and topped with fruit and melted sugar. She said it was the best she had eaten. I thought the same of my choice, a chocolate truffle cake with a dark chocolate ganache frosting, a dollop of cappuccino ice cream and a Grand Marnier sauce.
   Our young waitress, Sydnie, was excellent. She was friendly without being forward, helpful, prompt and quick to laugh at our jokes. She enhanced our dining experience.
   The Saloon offers a full bar and a wine list of about 40 wines by the bottle. Our glass of the Gia Pinot Grigio Casarsa ($7) was a fine choice.
   The restaurant is open for lunch on weekdays, and many of the items on the dinner menu also appear on the lunch menu, along with more salads and hot and cold sandwiches.
   The Saloon seems to be doing things right, and the number of diners is a good indication. The combination of atmosphere, service, wide selection of dishes and very good food should ensure its continued success.