By Pat Tanner Special Writer
Several years ago I went on the South Beach Diet, which allows no carbohydrates for the first two weeks. I fully anticipated missing pasta and bread, in that order. Much to my astonishment I found that the only white foodstuff I really craved was potatoes. My personal experience is not, however, why the United Nations has decreed 2008 the International Year of the Potato.
Rather, it’s because agricultural experts expect potatoes to become, more than ever, a major component in feeding the world’s poor and hungry. This planet’s population is expected to grow by more than 100 million people a year over the next two decades, with more than 95 percent of that increase occurring in developing countries. Since pressure on land and water is already intense in these parts of the world, ensuring food security while protecting limited natural resources is a key concern.
Cue the lowly spud! It is ideally suited to places where land is limited and labor is abundant. According to the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organization, it produces more nutritious food more quickly, on less land, and in harsher climates than any other major crop. Potatoes are rich in carbohydrates, have the highest protein content of any root or tuber, and are rich in vitamin C.
I am far from alone in my regard for potatoes: The recipes below span three continents where they are revered. I have personal attachments to each dish. The Irish stew comprised the first dinner I served to my Irish-American in-laws as a rank newlywed. I featured Papas Huancainas in one of my earliest Packet columns, which profiled a lovely Hillsborough woman, a native of Peru — the birthplace of the spud. The Amish recipe for potato salad is virtually identical to the one passed down to me by my maternal grandmother.
IRISH LAMB STEW
“British and Irish Cooking”
(‘Round the World Cooking Library; Garland Books; 1972)
3 pounds stewing lamb
6 large potatoes
4 onions
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups chicken broth
1½ tablespoons butter, softened
1 tablespoon flour
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley for garnish
1. Cut the lamb into cubes. Peel the potatoes and onions and cut them into thin slices or chunks. Chop the parsley and thyme together. Butter an oven-proof casserole. Arrange a layer of 1/3 of the potatoes on the bottom of the casserole. Cover with a layer of lamb, then a layer of onions. Season with the herbs, salt, and pepper.
2. Repeat to form 3 layers, seasoning between each layer and ending with the onions. Add the broth. Cover the casserole and cook in a 350 degree oven for 1½ hours, until the lamb is tender.
3. Combine the butter and flour in a small bowl and add the paste to the casserole. Continue cooking 5 minutes, until the juices are thickened. Garnish with parsley.
Serves 6.
PAPAS HUANCAINAS
(Potatoes with Spicy Cheese Sauce)
“The South American Table”
by Maria Baez Kijac (Harvard Common Press 2003)
6 medium red or Yukon gold potatoes
1½ teaspoons salt
For the sauce:
8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
One 3-ounce package cream cheese
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 large clove garlic, minced
One 3-inch hot yellow pepper, seeded and minced
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup whipping cream, or more if needed
¼ cup olive oil
Boston or red leaf lettuce, shredded
Black olives, halved and pitted, for garnish
1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan with water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt, bring to a boil, and cook over medium heat until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain, peel when cool enough to handle, cover, and set aside.
2. In a blender or food processor, place all the sauce ingredients and process until smooth. Transfer to a small saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until smooth, about 3 minutes. If the sauce is lumpy, return to the blender and process for a few seconds. If the sauce is too thick, stir in a little extra cream. Taste for salt and pepper. (The sauce can be made ahead, covered, and refrigerated until needed. Reheat until smooth enough to pour over the potatoes.)
3. To serve, line a plate or serving tray with lettuce, cut the potatoes in half lengthwise, and arrange on top of the lettuce. Pour the sauce over the potatoes and garnish each potato with an olive half.
Serves 6 as a side dish and 12 as an appetizer.
AMISH POTATO SALAD
adapted from “The Amish Cook”
by Elizabeth Coblentz with Kevin Williams
(Ten Speed Press 2002)
3 hard-boiled eggs, cooled
3 cups cooked, diced and chilled potatoes, with skins on
¾ cup mayonnaise or Miracle Whip
1½ teaspoons yellow prepared mustard, such as French’s
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
¼ small onion, chopped fine
¾ cup sugar (optional; omit if using Miracle Whip)
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup chopped celery
2 tablespoons milk
Peel the eggs and mash them with a potato masher in a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.
Serves 4 to 6.
