Turning back the clock on restaurants

By Tom Brophy
   With all the attention being given to restaurants and their ratings these days, I thought it would be fun to go back to the 1950s and rate the various hot spots for the kids of Princeton.
   Princeton was the Mecca of the corner candy store or small luncheonette, where we did the majority of our dining out. To those of us who grew up in Princeton, there were certain things we, as teenagers, looked for in our restaurants.
   For example, if you were really hungry after school and you wanted a good sandwich, you went to Viedt’s on Nassau Street. Their egg salad was the best in town.
   If you wanted to just meet and hang out, you went to Renwick’s up the street just past Palmer Square. Renwick’s was the hangout for kids, but its food was very average.
   Now that you have the idea, I’ll take you on a trip up Nassau Street back in the 1950s and give you a teenager’s view of our restaurants.
   I’ll start in Jugtown, which was on lower Nassau where the bank parking lot is now. It was a tiny luncheonette where you get a sandwich and a soda, but what makes Jugtown stand out was its owner, Joe Hostegles. Joe was a grumpy old man who sounded like the character from Señor Wences on “The Ed Sullivan Show” whose voice would come out from the box and say “OK, it’s all right.” He was very gruff and intimidated all of us. Jugtown did have a large selection of Tastykakes, which were just becoming popular.
   Next, there was the Carousel, which is still there. Back then, Tony and Gert Lieggi ran it and they were known for their breakfasts. Down through the years, the Carousel has had the best breakfasts in town and still does. Right next to the Carousel was the Esquire, which did a better business late at night and wasn’t considered one of the in places for the townies.
   Then there was Jimmy the Greek’s, where Hoagie Haven is today. This was a great spot for sodas and penny candy. The Kovalakides family ran it and their son, Nick, was a year ahead of me at school and went on to be a track star and coach at the University of Maryland.
   Cox’s was next, and I can remember the smell of peanuts as I walked into the store. Cox’s had both front windows filled with peanuts all the time and was one of my favorite stops. Right across the street was the best penny candy in town. You could walk in with 25 cents and have enough to get you through the entire afternoon. Good old Cleve Warren ran this tiny store that was a popular stop for us kids.
   Next on Nassau Street was Borden Castangna, which was next to the Garden Theater. This is where you got giant scoops of ice cream and large ice cream sodas and milk shakes. The Pietrinferno family ran this great spot and they went on to own and run Pietrinferno’s, after Buxton’s left. Today, Burger King occupies that site.
   The next place after Castagnas was Woolworth’s, yes, Woolworth’s. Way back then it had a counter and sandwich area. The kids never went there because they thought it was for the customers of the store.
   Then there was Viedt’s, which was owned by Myron Goldstein, who always greeted his customers and saw to it that they were seated. It had great sandwiches and its egg salad and tuna fish were fantastic. I vividly remember stopping there after church on Sunday with my family and taking home quarts of Costa’s French ice cream that they had packed on the spot.
   Then there was Liggitt’s Drug Store, which had a counter and served sandwiches. Now we have reached the corner of Nassau and Witherspoon. Are you full yet?
   If we take a quick stroll down Witherspoon you have the Colonial Diner on the corner o Spring Street. This was open 24 hours a day and was always packed after 11 p.m. when the town shut down. Across the street and a little to the right was Griggs’ restaurant. Mr. Griggs was a true legend and a gentleman. He ran a spectacular restaurant where you got giant hamburgers (best in town) and great lunches and breakfasts. Griggs’ was one of my favorites because the portions were large and always fantastic.
   Turning back toward Nassau, you would have found Moxie’s Luncheonette, the current home of Harry’s Luncheonette, who is the son of Moxie Ververedes. Moxie had sodas and milk shakes and a pinball machine where I spent many an hour. His pinball machines always seemed to pay off better than any other machine in town. Now, we’re back at the corner of Nassau Street and there is still more.
   You might have to stop in at the Balt Bakery for a brownie before stopping at The Balt. Oh, how I remember The Balt. Marion was behind the counter, and I can remember her making fresh orange juice in the morning. Back then, when you ordered a Coke, they would give you a few squirts from the Coke syrup dispenser and then add the seltzer water. It wasn’t like it is today when they both come out together. For my money, The Balt had the best Cokes in town.
   In the back of The Balt was the order area. Max was behind the counter and behind the counter was the kitchen. You could order breakfast, lunch and dinner and take your tray to a seat and look at the lovely tiles that were on the walls and ceiling. It always reminded me of a subway station in New York City. Oh, I almost forgot, The Balt also had a pinball machine way back in the corner, where I also spent a great deal of time.
   Now we have reached Palmer Square. Going down Palmer Square the Nassau Delicatessen was a favorite spot for everyone. The Lehnert family ran this fabulous business for 50 years. They had great sandwiches and imported foods. If you ever went to the movies at the Playhouse, you always stopped after the movies for something at the Nassau Delicatessen.
   Last but not least, there was Renwick’s, which was the place you always arranged to meet. After school, Renwick’s was packed with the high school crowd. On the weekends you always started your nights there and ended in there. I can remember Mrs. Nash, the hostess and night manager with her high heels and her bun, telling us to quiet down. Renwick’s didn’t have the best food, but it was The Place.
   Well, that’s the 25 restaurants and candy stores that we had as kids. I was in each and every one many times and couldn’t imagine not having them. I feel stuffed just thinking about them.
   Tom Brophy is a native of Princeton and was owner of the former Brophy Shoe Store.