Year of the Snake

Celebrate Chinese new year with crispy Shanghai spring rolls

By:Angela Chang
   Millions of Chinese and those interested in Chinese culture will celebrate the Year of the Snake beginning Wednesday.
   Unlike the fearsome snakes of real life, the zodiac snake is rather charming and is called "the small dragon." It is said that the snake was considered a blessing to the farmers in some areas of China years ago, because it chased away the grain-eating rat.
   People born in the Year of the Snake are believed to be talented, charming and romantic. In the beloved Chinese folk tale, "The Snake Lady," the heroine is a talented and beautiful young woman who has been transformed from a white snake by supernatural power and falls in love with a handsome young scholar. The ending is somewhat tragic — their love affair is interrupted by a self-righteous and powerful monk. As the scholar becomes very ill, the courageous heroine risks her own life to save her lover’s. The message is a familiar one — God’s creatures are all good in some way.
   The Chinese are obsessed with looking forward to good fortune, so no animal represents bad luck on the zodiac calendar.
   Like Christmas, Chinese New Year fills the cold winter with warmth and joy. It is not surprising that in recent years, celebration of this ancient holiday has moved beyond Chinese communities in America, since people from other cultures are increasingly attracted to the rich food culture displayed during this Chinese festival. Both Chinese restaurants and home parties will feature special New Year’s dishes that symbolize good fortune.
   The celebrations usually last for two weeks. Whether you choose to celebrate the New Year in your favorite Chinese restaurant or have a potluck party at someone’s house, try to pick a menu that includes a few typical New Year’s dishes such as spring rolls, meatballs (or shrimp balls), dumplings or fish to signify prosperity in the coming year.
   Spring rolls are perfect for the Chinese New Year celebration because of the symbolic meaning they bear — pieces of gold bars are signs of wealth.
   Egg rolls, which are different from spring rolls, are made with wrappers of egg dough, which yield thicker and less crisp rolls. Spring rolls are made with thinner flour wrappers and delicately flavored fillings that yield tastier rolls. Spring rolls are refined versions of the popular egg rolls. So the next time you have a craving for the more sophisticated spring rolls, find a good restaurant that supplies this elegant snack.
   If you are adventurous enough to try your hand at making spring rolls yourself, you will find these guidelines helpful:
   ‡ Spring roll wrappers are available only at Chinese food markets, such as the Golden Mushroom in Princeton. If necessary, purchase more than one package and store in your freezer as they keep many months without changing texture.
   ‡ Always cook the filling before wrapping it up because deep-frying can only form a crisp crust, and does not cook the filling.
   ‡ Once fried, spring rolls must be eaten the same day; they don’t reheat well. Here is an efficient way to have a constant supply of fresh spring rolls — when you make them, try to make 50 or more and freeze them for future use. But before frying, you must bring them to room temperature (microwave for a minute or two). This way you’ll have fresh and tasty spring rolls anytime you desire.
SPRING ROLLSŽ
   
   1 package Shanghai spring roll wrappers
   1 cup chicken breast, shredded
   ½ cup woodear mushrooms, shredded
   1 cup shrimp, cleaned and shredded
   6 leaves napa cabbage
   1 tablespoon minced garlic
   1 tablespoon chopped cilantro or scallions
   oil for deep frying
Marinade:
   1 teaspoon rice wine or sherry
   1 teaspoon light soy sauce
   ½ teaspoon sesame oil
   ½ egg white
   
Seasonings:
   salt and pepper to taste
   ½ teaspoon chili bean sauce
   Ð cup chicken broth
   2 teaspoons oyster sauce
   ½ teaspoon sesame oil
   1 tablespoon cornstarch plus 2 tablespoons water (as a binder)
   1 tablespoon cornstarch plus 4 tablespoons water (as a glue)
   
1. Add marinade to the shredded chicken and set aside. Soak the woodears until expanded, about 5 minutes, then cut into fine shreds (pre-shredded woodears are available at Chinese markets). Rinse the cabbage well. Cut off about half of the leafy part for a more delicate taste (use the leaves in soups). Drain thoroughly and cut into thin strips.
   2. In a pan, heat 4 tablespoons of oil over medium flame. Lightly sauté the chicken strips and shrimp until colors change. Drain well and remove. Turn the flame to high and sizzle the garlic until lightly browned. Sauté the woodears for one minute, then immediately add the cabbage, sprinkle salt and pepper, tossing to mix well. Add the rest of the seasonings except cornstarch. Cook for another three minutes until the cabbage is almost tender. Mix in the cooked chicken and shrimp, blending well. Thicken with cornstarch and add cilantro, then remove to a bowl. Allow to cool to room temperature. Squeeze out as much juice as possible and save it for soup.
   3. Bring the spring roll wrappers to room temperature (they can also be defrosted in a microwave oven) and carefully separate them with your hand. Place a wrapper on a smooth surface with one corner facing you. Place about one-plus tablespoons of filling near the corner. Fold over twice, bringing the sides to the center. Roll it up neatly and tightly seal with glue made form cornstarch and water (boiled briefly). Repeat until wrappers are used up. Leftover filling may be used as a side dish.
   4. This is everyone’s favorite party food, so make a big batch and freeze them for future use. It is best to lightly bake the spring rolls (at 300 degrees for 12 minutes) before freezing. This will prevent the rolls from sticking together and at the same time retain their shape. When ready to use, bring the spring rolls to room temperature. This will prevent oil from splattering. Heat two cups of oil over medium-high flame and deep-fry the spring rolls in small batches until golden in color. Drain thoroughly and absorb excess oil with paper towels. Serve within an hour.